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July 22, 2004
First classes and new work
20th – first class – went fairly well I think. Five students turned up, with a sixth at the end of class. I’ve been given another subject, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, teaching English for Accounting and Finance to the same students. Had a fairly good debrief with Monica and Hene in the evening, including the possibility of purchasing Monica’s moto when she leaves.
21st – first English class today! Class went smoothly, except that the listening exercise was difficult, mostly due to the low quality tape (and background noise on the tape – I can appreciate their attempts to make it ‘real life’, but it makes it so much more difficult to hear…)
I had dinner and drinks with Monica and Jason (works in Rovieng), and realised how little cash I have left after paying for my moto and the visa extension…. I’m going to see how far the last $30 can go…. I wonder if I can make it to the end of the month – payday!
Posted by Dan at 04:59 AM | Comments (0)
July 20, 2004
First Job in Phnom Penh!
19th – dropped off old daelim moto to Angkor, got a Honda Wave from Lucky Lucky ($45 per month, instead of $3 per day) and paid $140 for a 6 month multi-entry visa extension. I dropped off my CV to Vinh, and he pretty much hired me on the spot. My CELTA (Cambridge Certificate of English Language Teaching for Adults) was one factor for hiring me, as there was another potential candidate (without CELTA), and Vinh’d like to use me for a business English course later on. So, I am to teach some kind of Information Systems subject, but they haven’t got the books yet, doh! I went to the Russian markets and bought some Polo Ralph Lauren pants (‘actually’ genuine, from what I can tell) for $5, a Cambodian GAP shirt for $3, a couple of cheap Chinese silk shirts for $2.50 each and a silvery-blue tie for $1.50.
I met Vinh back at the school at 5pm, to read the syllabus (and hoping to read the book, but still no). It is not actually anything related to what Vinh told me. In fact, it specifically excludes what he told me about (I think he was reading about the more advanced subject which might come after this). However, it’s a pretty easy introductory subject, relating to IT systems and how to use and care for them in a business environment. Apparently the pass rate is not as high as other subjects, primarily due to the amount of technical jargon, ie. the language/vocab is an issue for the students. I met a few of the students (the class will have around 12 students) during the beginning of the first class of another teacher.
So, I’ve got a job! I’ll be teaching at the Regent School of Business, teaching (for now) one subject, 3 hours a week, $15 per hour. The course that is run is a Professional Accounting Program, which leads to qualifications of CAT, Bachelor of Science in Applied Accounting (from Cambridge Brookes University) and eventually to the ACCA. These mean nothing to me, but apparently they are respected Accounting certifications. Regent is one of the better business schools in Cambodia, one of the most expensive (for students), and one of the best paying (for teachers). I was told that they consider the academics of the students highly, which, in corrupt times, is exceptional. This goes to show how a model of paying staff well leads to higher quality education (Is the Cambodian Government reading this?).
Anyhow, after the meeting, I went home to find that Monica arrived back today. After relaying the goings on of her trip to Hene and I, she seemed pretty tired, with quite a few things on her mind, so I didn’t have much opportunity to talk. She’s accepted a job with ADRA Australia, as a Regional Program Coordinator, which she’s very excited about, leaving in as soon as a month!
Speaking of leaving, Sharyn, Ben and 7/9ths of the plus one are heading back to Oz on the 20th in preparation for birth. I’m writing this ON the 20th, and I didn’t have the opportunity to see them before they left, which is a shame. Oh well, I’m sure I’ll be here when the three of them return.
20th – I got a call from Vinh today, he’s got all my paperwork sorted (but still none of the new books), and even told me about a decent apartment for $120 per month that might be available.
Posted by Dan at 03:43 AM | Comments (0)
16-18 July - PP Weekend
16th – Friday night. Went out at night, met a cool crew of locals, Vinh Dao from California, who works at Regent School of Business, might have some business teaching hours for me. There was Caleb and gf, as well as a German bird Lydia. Hung out at the Ginger Monkey for a while then went to Viper. Viper is a multi story dance/nightclub complex. The second floor is the primary dance floor, which was playing moderately heavy techno. It’s usually filled with barangs and Khmers out for a dance, but there was no-one there. They had only a very expensive selection of spirits (no vodka!?), so I bought some cokes for us all, but even they cost $2 each! We hung around, waiting for it to happen. The only happening thing was a crusty old guy who looked like he had been, and still was, making the most of all the illicit drugs available and was walking, spinning and dancing like a slow-motion parrot (The parrot bit came from him sitting in a table-like thing with bars over it, looking like a cage).
17th – Saturday, not much during the day, but went out at night. It rained during the evening, so I wasn’t very hyped about going out. After the evening movie finished (at midnight), it had stopped raining and I decided to make the most of the Saturday night. I went to The Heart of Darkness, bought a drink and meandered (It was quite busy, half barang half Khmer). Chatted to various people and eventually stuck with Dave, an Adelaidian who had just arrived in PP on holiday. We spent the rest of the night drinking, dancing and chatting to various barang women. As usual, the ones that seem interested aren’t the ones you’re interested in. We left to get some food from a dodgy stall outside (not returning, which may well have hampered our attempts also) – now ‘The Heart’ (as well as a couple of other nearby clubs) has become so popular and busy on weekend nights that an enterprising person has set up a caravan selling late night foods at barang-restaurant prices, complete with a big white billboard of pricing and pictures (yes, believe it or not they even have kebabs! [quality unknown]). We went straight past and onto a Khmer stall, which was deep frying various processed meat substances. After having a bit of fun with the stall owner and a couple of Khmer girls in exploring the food selection and our order, we sat down (on those very short little plastic stools) and ate with the girls. They were quite entertaining, although mostly laughing at us! (It’s very cool to have a few Khmer words up your sleeve, numbers and a few expressions) Before leaving, they invited us to play pool, but they ran off when Dave was buying some water (plus, he was pretty tired) so we didn’t follow. We then proceeded to try and locate Dave’s guesthouse on my moto. We took the ‘long’ way, through various muddy sections of road around lakeside before it looked familiar to my compadre, making apparent the quality of the place and the reason for the $2/night pricetag!
Posted by Dan at 03:40 AM | Comments (0)
July 14, 2004
Phnom Penh
Well, since arriving here, I’ve not done much at all, apart from ride around town on my rented moto, buy DVDs, write up these logs, and watch those DVDs. :) Not a bad life I’d say. I’m looking for work, as well as working on the development of my Hostaccino business. I’d like to get some IT work, but there’s not much IT advertised here… If I don’t find anything soon, I’ll go out and find some English Teaching work.
Phnom Penh has change a bit, even in the 6 months since I was last here… There are fewer ‘dirt’ roads around the city, a greater number of barang-oriented (barang=westerner) shops and fast food outlets. There’s even a single ATM!!! (but only for the local bank’s access cards thus far)
We’ve also had a strange mix of weather in the past few days… from hot and humid to raining Cats and Dogs!! (and then the power went out for a few hours, just to rub it in…)
I’ve got a Cambodian sim card for my phone, so anyone wanting to call/SMS me can do so on +855 12 346 189
Posted by Dan at 05:46 AM | Comments (0)
8-9th July - Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh
8th – Didn’t do anything today, got up at 4pm, went to play poker with Tod (from Diving) and some other local Sihanoukvillains. Bachelor pad very cool, with a couple of rooms, a well decked-out western bathroom, a tightly secure lounge room (with full entertainment system), a ping-pong table and various weird murals of cartoon characters. Played poker and lost about $5 in 45 minutes (not very much fun… there was a poker shark there). Played some ping pong with Tod then went to Bamboo Light for some more drinks. Payed Fred for diving, then played some pool with Tod and Andy, before retiring for the night.
9th – Went to the beach with Caan in the morning before I got the 12:30 bus to PP. Fairly unexciting yet unproblematic trip. Got a moto to ADRA office, where Mark got the key for Monica’s house for me, and gave me a lift to there. Chilled out at ‘home’ till Hene (flatmate) arrived, and she told me the 411. Monica’s place is great! Ground and first floor of a very large house, with a lengthy driveway/garden area and a large secure gate. I’ve got my own room upstairs, and we pay for both a cook and a cleaner :)
Posted by Dan at 05:41 AM | Comments (0)
5-7th July - Diving from Sihanoukville
5th – Diving from SHV today. 2 dives, first one was a Nav dive, current changed direction and was quite strong, so 2nd leg was just to get back to the boat. Second dive was going to be a deep one, but current was very strong, and the anchor didn’t have a good hold, so we were dragged to a not so deep place, but still good fun going into ‘absolute’ darkness for a minute or so, 26m. It was actually quite disturbing – once you hit complete darkness, and you can’t see the light in your hand. I almost freaked out, but reminded myself that I was holding onto the anchor line, which was my safety line, and I relaxed a bit.
6th – Diving today with the boys, plus Manchester and a couple (Nev and Sandra). 3 Dives today, one was a Naturalist dive, second was DPV – Divers Propulsion Vehicle – one of those cool motorised diving scooter thingys, like James Bond (SOOO much fun), then a night dive – pretty cool (bio-luminescence is very, very cool underwater – better than just beach, you can spin around, stand upside down and throw magic balls!). Very tired after a long day of diving. Had dinner with Nev, Sandra and Manchester, before hanging out with Caan.
7th – More diving – today with a couple of Indian guys. Two dives, both at Elvis, first dive was good…. Got separated from Andy, and watched fish for a while…. Second dive was worse vis, but still ok. Had dinner and drinks with Tod, Andy, Neem and Fred at Italian restaurant (had fish egg spaghetti), then went to Dusk for more drinks.
And Mum, you wanted to see a pic of me kitted up in diving gear? Here we go…
But I can do even BETTER than that! Click HERE for a video clip of me doing my very best James Bond dive impression!
Posted by Dan at 04:59 AM | Comments (0)
1-4th July - Wreck Diving Adventure
1st July – Was going to leave SHV, but saw Ecosea advertising the wreck dive. Enquired and found out that they were leaving the following day (Friday) for a few day’s diving adventure. I decided to join them, and do my advanced course at the same time ($150). Didn’t do much during the day… Chatted with American/British couple as well as British couple at Bungalows that night.
View from the port at Ko Sdach
2nd – Got 12pm ferry to Ko Sdach (near Ko Samit…. 2 hours by ferry (half way between Koh Kong and SHV), set up camp on the island. Fred (Yankee instructor, owner of Ecosea) and Andy (Kiwi DMT – Dive Master Trainee) went for a very brief night dive off harbour…. Came back because of bad visibility, and strong current.
3rd – Diving off Ko Sdach (another smaller island to the west – Ko Sdach Leu ?) Did an early morning dive off the beach on Ko Sdach, but it was very shallow, low vis, not very fun. The boat was grounded, so we took a longtail to the other island. Two dives, both not bad, not amazing. 3-5m vis, 10m deep? A bunch of fish, a bunch of coral.
4th – Left Ko Sdach, back for SHV. Didn’t do much, stayed at Sihanoukville Hotel. Went for Independence Day drinks at Spitfire, then picked up Caan and went to Biba for a catfish and some drinks.
Posted by Dan at 03:15 AM | Comments (0)
26-30 June - Chilling out in Sihanoukville
26th – Like most days here, chilling out, riding around, buying lychees, reading books.
27th – False start on diving, yet the people who were going to dive were cool, so planned to meet for dinner. Did so, and then went to Mick and Craig’s for drinks afterwards and some pool. Did sweet FA during the day, went to the market, hung around. Late at night, while chatting with Olivier (Bungalow Village owner), the monsoon hit us, taking only a few seconds to go from a light breeze to heavy wind and rain, quite brilliant!
28th – big chill out day… sorted a lot of emails, and posted a few log entries. Went to have dinner (pizza and beer) and Unkle Bobs, then on the way out, chatted with Sim (Canadian) and Mary (Ire), had a few more drinks, etc…. pulled out my now infamous line… in response to ‘you can see what I am like on the outside’ --> ‘so when can we see what’s on the inside…’ I hadn’t gotten halfway through the sentence when I realised what I was saying! Anyway, I was planning on leaving for PP the following day, so I left them at about 2am. As I got to the bike, there were some girls hanging around the bikes, and one of them wanted a lift home. I was going to give her a lift, but the bike wouldn’t start. First they thought it was petrol, but after getting a lift to the nearest petrol place and back, we found it wasn’t empty – still wouldn’t start. We then went and got a friend (Dan) of the girl (Caan) from his guesthouse to come and help us fix it. After various attempts at getting it to work (battery had died, so we tried roll starting it), we found that the spark plug cap was missing… So we tried to attach it as best we could, to get it back to his guesthouse. After various attempts, we almost got it there. We then stayed while he went and got another one from a different bike. Finally, bike sorted, I went home.
29th – Got some breakfast and then headed to the local waterfall with my local tour guide Caan.
Caan
Click here for a videoclip of the waterfall.
Here’s a couple of cuties who did end up getting me to buy some chips from them.
Waterfall was great, but I got sunburnt on my face, arms and some on my shoulders. Went home, then went to dinner at a Khmer bbq place. Had decent bbq beef, then incredible bbq pork (yum!) We then went to the beach for drinks with Caan’s friend. I also met another of her friends, Buanyuen, who was a drop-dead cutie. I remember thinking she’s the kind of thing (visually) that I could fall for. I don’t think her English was all that great, and I was probably drooling too much to talk. Anyway, went to go home, and found that the tyre was flat. Not good luck with the bike. Got the bike back to Caan’s place and slept.
30th – spent the day lounging around in sunburn, not interested in doing anything. Went to dinner with Caan then spent some time at her place with her friends. Went to the beach with Caan and Tin (mute friend), then eventually came home to sleep.
Posted by Dan at 02:44 AM | Comments (0)
Movie: The Beach
Ok, its probably time I tell you about my overall experience of Ko Phan Ngan, and how it relates to the movie ‘The Beach’, as I’ve already told some of you there are some interesting parallels. It probably wont matter if you haven’t seen it yet, I’m not giving much of the movie away, but you might want to watch it first if you get disappointed by hearing about endings before seeing the movie (easily guessable, however I’m not scripting the movie here).
I bought and watched The Beach on the last night I had on Ko Pha Ngan, it had a… (now, now Dan, be creative) an emotional effect on me. Firstly, it was very cool to see some of the places I was/had been, on the film. Khao San Road is pretty much the same as they showed it, albeit a few years more advanced. Ko Samui is not exactly how they show it. It IS touristy and populated, and full of ladyboys and ladygirls, but take pictures of Ko Samui and add a McDonalds, Star Bucks, Pizza Hut, etc. and remove the dodgy-ass bud he’s riding on (turn it into a Taxi or Songthaew) then you’ll have a clearer picture of my impression of Ko Samui – Chaweng Beach in particular. Ko Pha Ngan ‘can’ look the way they represented it, but only at about midnight, once every month (yes folks, full moon party night). Otherwise, it’s nowhere near as busy as they make it out to be, and far less obnoxious. Also, that is only a representation of Hat Rin (town of full moon party) – other areas of the island are much less populated and less ‘impacted’.
My time on Ko Pha Ngan were kind of like Leo’s (I don’t remember the character’s name) time on ‘The Beach’ – in that it became a total time-warp, totally enclosed and separated from reality. It is an absolute party island (especially Hat Rin, but also elsewhere), and can very easily suck you into a routine of Partying hard at night, sleeping and sunbaking during the day. Day in, day out, it’s a fantastic dream world. I loved it. But – and there’s always a But – I can’t live like that forever. It’s great for a holiday, fantastic to get away for a few weeks, but especially when you’re on borrowed, interest-charged money, some aspects of reality work their way back in.
In contrast to being on an isolated island like in The Beach, Hat Rin does have mobile coverage and internet access, so there IS the ability to stay in touch with the outside world, but the motivation is generally lacking (due to being ‘in’ the party mode, or trying to sleep it off!). For me, it was a wild time of partying, but don’t get me wrong, you don’t HAVE to do that if it’s not your thing. I am now officially recommending Ko Pha Ngan to all travellers (ok, so if you’ve got kids its more of a hassle – maybe Ko Samui), young and old, single or coupled. As a seasoned traveller once told me, “Ko Pha Ngan has everything Ko Samui has, but none of the stuff you don’t want” – KB. I absolutely agree. It’s great…. From the fire twirling beach nightlife on Hat Rin, to the tucked away beauties of Thong Noi Pan and other smaller beaches, it’s all there. I mentioned this a few times while I was there, and I’ll say it again, “Ko Pha Ngan is a tropical bloody paradise island”.
Anyway, back to the movie. Once you get beyond what I’ve talked about, it goes a bit weird, which has no relation to me at all ;), and you don’t need to kill to stay on Ko Pha Ngan either :). However, once all the weirdness is over, and they all return to their previous lives, I can definitely relate to ‘experience’ being a single, enclosed, untouched memory. The idea of sitting in an internet café, looking at a photo of the experience, thinking it was out of this world, and that it might well be a parallel universe :).
Absolutely magic. I will definitely be going back to Ko Pha Ngan, probably for holidays, probably not for more than a few weeks (partying can be expensive, even in an inexpensive country).
Posted by Dan at 02:42 AM | Comments (0)
Interesting things of note in Cambodia
Firstly, I am now definitely chilled out, and my motivation to write has come back. I’ve kept a relatively brief overview of each day’s events on the laptop, just for my own memory’s reference. The interesting thing is now that I feel like writing, how MUCH ends up coming out, compared to the dribbled bits of info I kept during the last couple of weeks. I’ve been filling in a few days at a time, working backwards, it’s easier to figure it out that way. I find myself going back and filling it out in a lot more detail also, so that’s quite possibly what will happen in the future, especially during ‘busy’ times. This ‘extra’ stuff is probably the most interesting, maybe for you fellow readers, but most definitely for me later on. The what’s and where’s are mandatory, but relatively detached.
(slight philosophical ramble)
The normal stuff takes hours, days to execute, and gives up a few lines, whereas the big stuff, the thinking, the thoughts, take only minutes to eventuate, to be thought about, so when the time is there, a lot of the thought stuff comes out.
(end ramble)
Also interesting is that I compare myself with fellow travellers, sometimes feeling like a veteran, knowing some language, being able to communicate a little better with locals than others… while at other times I feel like a tourist. Some of these guys have been travelling for years, and they not only know how to speak Khmer/Thai fluently (enough), but travel around like seasoned travellers, knowing where to go, what to do, and what to expect (or, if not what to expect, are not concerned at all by it). So I guess I’m generally somewhere in between.
I’m having more difficulty changing my mindset to riel than I expected. I thought that it would pose no problems, as 1 baht = 100 riel. However, the unexpected confusion comes because many people bill in us dollars, and accept in either. So I end up having to convert to and from US dollars/riel quite a lot…. In Thailand, I only had to convert to US dollars ‘after’ the transaction, usually only for my own reference.
Posted by Dan at 02:40 AM | Comments (0)
Sihanoukville Development
I mentioned the development style here, which I don’t like. You have either ‘shack-like’ food and drink stalls on the beaches, or multi-million dollar resorts, ‘owning’ beaches. Sokha Beach for example, a 1km beach was bought by the Sokha Resort, and is now a private beach (you can go there, buy a drink, and therefore spend time on the beach, but that’s not the point). I much prefer the moderate development of Ko Pha Ngan and other Thai islands and beaches, and would definitely recommend them before Sihanoukville. In saying that, it’s quieter here, and that may appeal to some people. Apparently there are heaps of basically deserted islands that are easily accessible, so for a couple wanting a private beach atmosphere, that is entirely possible here. Anyway, I’d better get back to finishing the past few days logs before they escape me.
Posted by Dan at 02:38 AM | Comments (0)
25th – First ‘day’ in Sihanoukville
Continental breakfast, internet (deadly slow, but at least I could use my laptop), picked up laundry, checked out the beaches on my rented Honda Dream ($3/day) and found out that the lonely planet’s inside cover description is correct – ‘empty beaches’. My god, it’s crazy, I was expecting something a little more developed than this…. That’ll teach me to go somewhere without researching it! (yeah, yeah, I can deal with it, I know….. but if I knew it was like this, I probably WOULD have done a visa run and spent more time in Thailand). I enjoy having reasonable speed internet, mobile reception, places to stay, eat and drink on the beach, with roads that are more than just sand dunes – so shoot me!
Serendipity (Occhuteal) Beach
Click here for a walking videoclip of the beach.
In addition to that, the sand part of beaches here are not all that deep and they have waves! They remind me more of Sydney-like beaches…. Not ‘bad’, yet far from the gloriousness of southern Thailand. I’m definitely going back there again! And yes, I ‘could’ go back there even now, but that would waste a US$38 visa I’ve already paid for, and I do need to get back into the swing of things, like figuring out some method of paying for all this beach time. Anyhow, this place (Bungalow Village) is quite nice. It’s tucked away, so the privacy aspect is quite nice (for only the second time, I’m typing away on my balcony, swinging in the hammock. :))
It’s become apparent to me again how poor and poorly paid Cambodians are, and thus the things they do in order to get barang (not farang, like Thailand) money. For example, I was extremely upset with the situation at visa control, as can be read in a previous post. In addition to this, the moto taxi drivers are many times more eager to get your business than in Thailand (in Sihanoukville at least). Fortunately, this being a still relatively undeveloped town, people aren’t as likely to completely rip you off, their asking prices are a lot more realistic. (ie. They might only start off with a 30-100% markup, as opposed to a 200-1000% markup, as has been found in tourist-centric locations). In Cambodia, laundry is charged by the piece, not the kilogram, which is interesting. I thought I’d probably pay more, but it came out pretty similarly priced to what I’ve been paying in Thailand (500riel per item here, 40baht per Kg in Thailand, a full load is around 3kg). I’m getting around a week per cycle, which is not too bad… but this also means I’ve enough clothes to be able to dump some if I really felt I was carrying too much.
Posted by Dan at 02:35 AM | Comments (0)
The Wearing of Shoes (or lack thereof)
Hmmm, I appreciate the benefit of wearing shoes all the time now…. Wearing sandals and walking around sandy and dirty places all the time, feet become a lot more dirty, worn and injured. Fortunately, I’ve had little more than a pressure blister or two, but I’ve seen some fairly dodgy looking feet on this trip (in definite contrast to the rest of the owners’ bodies).
Posted by Dan at 02:33 AM | Comments (0)
24-25 June – Sihanoukville
I couldn’t catch the boat today. There was no boat. It didn’t come back from Sihanoukville – weather problems. It could be up to 4 days before it would come back. So, not wanting to stay in Koh Kong, I embarked upon the dodgiest 7 hour bus trip ever. I guess most people heading to Sihanoukville go by Boat, possibly why the bus is dodgy, roads even more so. Koh Kong to Sihanoukville, 600 baht, same price for boat or bus. I paid 600baht to get from Bangkok to Ko Samui, on a large A/C bus with movies, including the transfer to the ferry and the ferry! I wouldn’t have minded paying that same price to be on a large ocean-bound (although not necessarily ocean-designed, from what I hear) speedboat, but to be then told that it’s the same price for the dodgy bus, I was not impressed. There was some impressive scenery along the way, but being unimpressed and unmotivated, no photos are available. I read a whole book on the journey, keeping my mind from the dodginess and lack of A/C. Arrived in Sihanoukville, and wandered around a bit looking at guesthouses with a couple of English chicks from the bus (Sarah and Vicky), then decided on Bungalow Village. After reviewing the beach situation (the following day) – ie. They’re nothing compared with Thailand - this is definitely not a bad place to chill out. I did some meditative breathing with the girls (I need to work on my flexibility to sit like they do), then we went and got some dinner. We walked to the town centre, not realising how spread out this town is. Not such a great idea in hindsight, but I guess it was good exercise. We ate at a Sri Lankan restaurant, The Bamboo Light Cafe; I had an incredible Squid Masala with rice and was absolutely bloated by the end of it.
I was almost amused to head that the boat did come back on this day, and did go to S’Ville the following day. I made the decision to go, as I didn’t like Koh Kong, and I don’t regret it, although the bus was still uncool.
Posted by Dan at 02:33 AM | Comments (0)
21-23 June – Onwards and Outwards to Cambodia
21st – Got up early, packed and paid. Got a combined ticket to Bangkok – ferry to Surat Thani, then a train to Bangkok (2nd class upstairs sleeper, A/C – all up, 850baht). Had a good chat with Kirrilee and Bevan online before I left. The ferry was fine… I sat in the 40baht VIP room which had A/C and movies, although after purchasing some food I realised that inside downstairs was of bearable temperature anyway. The train was mostly uneventful, I met a Thai lady called Aiya who spoke reasonable English, but she moved to another bunk, being a Samaritan for a Yankee chick who had broken her foot, and had an upper bunk. I remembered (and read) what to do on trains, so I bought a Pad Thai Gai and a Gai (chicken) skewer for the ride.
22nd – The thirteen and a half hour train trip terminated at Bangkok at 7:30am. I bought a fantastic noodle soup for 25baht from across the road, and then went to Khao San Road (First time this trip – maybe first time ever?). It’s an absolute hive of shops (although not very busy at 8am), easy to see it’s backpacker central. I found a 1024kb internet café and was even able to plug my laptop in…. nice! I dealt with a few online things, and then headed for Pantip Plaza. I was able to get a new camera battery – only one of three todo items down – doh! I then realised I may not be able to make it to Cambodia in one day, but I’d like to get close if I can anyway… so I got the 147baht bus to Trat. The bus ride, all five hours of it, was pleasant enough. We stopped a couple of times, so I got another noodle soup during one of them. It’s interesting to note (have I noted this before?) that Thai ‘highway stops’ have fantastic food, in direct contrast to what you would expect at most other countries, western ones in particular!
Trat is quite a nice town, and I’d spend more time there next time. I didn’t even really explore the town…. I was tired, so I spent my evening in the guesthouse, chatting to various other travellers, including one Canadian chick Kerry, who I had a couple of beers with.
23rd – Well I woke up at 5am, in order to get to the minibus by 5:40, which left at 6:00 (giving me time to explore the brilliant Trat markets – a definite must-see if in the area). 75 minutes and 100 baht later I was at the Thai-Camb border at Ban Hat Lek. I had to wait 10 minutes and pay 200baht for overstaying my visa by 6 hours (ok, 1 day), and headed to my next problem – Cambodian Visa officials. They were trying to tell me I had to pay 1500 baht for a business visa, officially US$25 (equiv to 1000baht). They were also trying to tell me that they would not accept US dollars, stating that only the airports do that – utter BS. Anyway, there was a German couple waiting to see the ‘boss’ – they were being asked to pay 1100baht for a tourist visa (normally US$20/800baht, or typically 1000baht at land borders) – so I waited with them. I was eventually asked to wait outside, while the Germans were given their little ‘act’, including various to-ing and fro-ing of words and a torn and thrown visa application. They eventually were charged 1000baht for their visas, no worries.
I went in, and was given similar treatment, although my visa application was torn up in direct response to my writing the official’s badge number down. After this, he blatantly refused to give me a visa. So I tore out the page that had his badge number on it, and threw it in the bin. Another official read what was on it, and they continued with another visa application (how much paper do they waste with such antics?), but I was still unable to do better than the originally quoted price. That means that the dickhead pockets 500baht (US$12.50), just from a single visa!!! Not impressed, but I was somewhat forewarned of the possibility by a website. Unfortunately, nothing they suggested (like trying to give them the exact amount in US currency) helped. My only potential solace is that the website did mention who to complain to (and I’m hoping - although not holding my breath – there might be some chance of refund). Fortunately I still have Mr Dickhead’s badge number (good old memory).
Anyway, I was again frustrated at the duality of social graces in SE Asia, ie. That I was unable to say anything to Mr Dickhead apart from ‘thank you’ – as I’d rather not experience the inside of a Cambodian Jail, nor the end of a gun’s barrel. Thank God for Western freedom of speech, Australia’s lack of guns, and Australia’s mostly incorrupt officials (at least as far as I’m concerned)!
Because of the waiting time, I missed the speedboat to Sihanoukville, the most frustrating and ironic part being that I didn’t get a discounted visa ANYWAY! So I got up early for nothing, and missed the boat for nothing. Ugh. So I stayed in Koh Kong for a night, which really is just a transit point for the border, in reality a shanty town. I didn’t feel very comfortable here, and was glad to leave the following day.
It’s strange having to relearn what I’d already learnt in the previous month in what was a relatively comfortable country. I have to relearn the greetings, numbers, food names, currency conversion, etc… It’s like the Cambodian people speak a whole different language! ;)
Posted by Dan at 02:31 AM | Comments (1)
16-20 June - Diving
Woke up, packed up and left Thong Noi Pan – feeling like I couldn’t stay any longer, and it wasn’t comfortable anymore anyway (I’d lost my sandals, lost the key and just needed to leave). Staying near Thong Sala, at Porn Sawen Bungalows - 120 baht a night for my own fan bungalow right ON the beach. How good is that? (Ok, so its not the nicest of beaches, but still) I WAS going to go to Ko Tao (for diving), but ended up booking a dive course here instead, training in Thong Sala, and diving off the coast. I met some nice English birds here, a couple of Jackies, Emma, Chloe, Becky, Kristin and a couple of others…. One of the Jackies has just booked the diving course I’m taking, so it’ll be cool to have someone ‘known’ (albeit only a couple of hours) along. Black moon party is on tonight apparently, so that should be good.
Porn Sawen Bungalow and Aow Plaay Laem – the beach in front of my bungalow
Getting to Top Rock Bar, then once we got there…
(from left) Jackie, Dan, Jackie, Chloe, Beckie, Yoris, Kristin and Emma in front
Had dinner with the girls, then went to Top Rock Bar, at the top of 170 steps -amazing view! Had some more food there, provided by owner Pippy (including crabs caught by ‘us’ [not me] earlier on in the afternoon. Black Moon party after that, started out ok, techno, not that great, not a lot of people. I didn’t feel too good, but Becky and other Jackie took fairly good care of me, which I’m glad for… Anyway, went home early (care of English Jackie and Chloe. Couldn’t sleep, got up, had a few showers, etc, sat on porch, lay in hammock…
17th –First day of Scuba Diving Training (PADI Open Water Diving) – only a couple of hours sleep max didn’t help much with anything today, but we got through it. Cool people (Trainer Michel Le Blanc – Dutch) - Jackie and Myself, a pommie couple Nathan and Sarah and an Austrian Hemma. Longer day than expected – 9-5, all theory! So tired…. Went to buy a new DVD to watch, but they’re 200b, and low quality here…. Maybe I’ll go to Hat Rin and pick up a few. I had a relatively easy night in, watched TV and had dinner with Chloe and Emma. Chatted on the net for a few hours with Nick and dealt with some business with Jerrilee.
18th – Second day of Diving - Went to pool situated on mountainside overlooking ocean, beautiful!
Did the skills in the pool, and got a little sunburnt. Did final exam back at the shop. Finished at 6pm, quite tired, but still wanting to go to Hat Rin with the girls. At Hat Rin I had an awesome dinner – Sizzling Island Seafood, presented like Mongolian Lamb, SIZZLING! Had a few drinks, bought some DVDs (150b ea), had quite a few more drinks with the girls, and spent the night dancing with Jackie and Becky, and occasionally with Laura (Scot from Thong Noi Pan, freaky co-incidence!). Went home at about 2am, cause I was diving next day!! Otherwise would have been a huge night! David George, a DJ from The Ministry Of Sound was to be there!!
19th – 8:30 start, went on Diving Speedboat (normal Diving boat was in for service) to Koh Maa (beach near Ao Mae Haad, NW corner of island) for first Ocean Dives. Not a lot of visibility (1-2m for first, 2-4m for second), and relatively shallow (max 6-7m). Was good fun, but very tiring! Got home at about 2pm, checked email, here I am. This time I’m on my laptop tho, cool.
Ao Mae Haad (Koh Maa) - Where we dove
20th – Similar to yesterday, two ocean dives. The first one was at Sail Rock, a very funky pinnacle sticking out of the water, usually on of the best dives around. Unfortunately it was only about 3-5m of visibility, so after the dive, the instructor decided to go back to Koh Maa for the final dive. I felt a bit frustrated during both dives today. I was frustrated by diving formation during both dives. During the first one (at Sail Rock), I found myself spread between my diving buddy behind me (and a tail-end Charlie behind her) and the rest of the group. At the critical point of decision, there was about 2-4m of space between me and anyone, which was pretty much the limit of visibility. I had to choose between staying with my buddy and staying with my group. In hindsight, maybe it was a bad decision, but I stopped and waited for my buddy to catch up. We lost the rest of the group, and ended up floundering around the rest of the dive (Tail-end Charlie being a Dive Master Trainee, but not a very confident or communicative one.). From his perspective, he was ‘sticking around’ us, as we went ‘up and down’. From our perspective, we were awaiting instructions and following him once the rest of the group was gone. Very frustrating… missed half of the viewing of the dive.
The frustration from the second dive (back at Koh Maa) came from the opposite of the first… I was continually either running into the instructor, or being run into from a diver behind me (I’m pretty sure I know who was behind me, and it doesn’t surprise me). I was in the ocean, but didn’t have enough room!! In addition to that, the instructor would occasionally stop, checking on the group, often pointing out (or telling off) that I should keep my fins away from the coral. When I’m behind the instructor, next to my buddy, and the instructor stops, where am I supposed to go? So I ended up choosing to dive a little higher than the instructor, so that I had a little space, and was less likely to hit him or others. I then get told to come back down. Ugh. Where am I supposed to be? It definitely didn’t help that visibility was 2-4m, as the crampedness would not have been an issue if we could see each other further away. Anyway, its done, I’m a PADI Open Water Diver – Diver Dan!
The Divers – Dan, Hemma, Jackie, Sarah, Nathan, a DMT and Michel (Instructor)
Posted by Dan at 02:12 AM | Comments (1)
7-16 June - Thong Noi Pan
After a week of “Kicking the arse out of it” – Nick – we decided that it was time to check out the rest of the island, hopefully to find a quiet place to relax for a few days. I had been told about some beach on the Northern side of Ko Pha Ngan, which was supposedly perfect for such a thing.
Little did we know that this more remote section of the island has its own party culture and nightlife. Instead of the quantity of people of Hat Rin, the Thong Noi Panners pride themselves on quality. So much for a relaxing week… Nick and I had some of our biggest nights here. Again, the nights were out at one of the (three) local bars, the days were spent sleeping and sunbaking.
It rained occasionally while I was here, which created an interesting atmosphere at night, but spoilt the sunbaking during the day.
I began a regular routine here…. After getting up for breakfast at 3pm (eating at Pen’s Restaurant next door – the Central Cottage – where we were staying – Restaurant had okish food, but crap service), I’d lie on the beach for a few hours, reading one of my oversized fiction novels. Nick might join me if he woke up before 5 o’clock, otherwise I’d wake him for dinner. We’d then choose a place to eat – our favourite became Candle Hut as it had good food, great service, effort and presentation. We would then see which bar was happening that night (or if there was a party on somewhere else), have a few drinks, and usually end up at Game Bar later on. Game Bar was usually opened the latest, and they made the best late-night food ever (barring dodgy kebabs, which were not available) – Bombay Baguettes…. Mmmm, these foot long baguettes were filled with freshly cooked chicken curry and a few pieces of salad – delich!!
I met many people during this week, most noticeable were the gorgeous Scottish Med Students, Laura and Verity, as well as the ‘locals’ Joe (Pom), Keo (Thai), Rose (Israeli) and Chu (Israeli).
Verity disguised as a school teacher and Laura in Nick’s traditional Scottish garb.
(from left) Nick, Keo, Joe, Rose, Dan
Speaking of Scots, here’s Dan doing his best impression :)
The other common activity that took place here was the letting off of cheap Chinese fireworks. They cost all of about 5 baht each from the local supermarket… Joe was a fireworks freak! You’d stick a skewer-like end into the sand, or in an empty bottle, light the fuse, then go for cover, as it made an arc though the sky, climaxing with a deafening BANG (usually) before it hit the water.
On Friday the 11th, there was a fantastic party at Hideaway Bar (behind Noi Beach, the next one along)…. By the time we got there, the place was absolutely hopping mad with people! I chatted to a few friendly females, including an Emily, who, from a distance looked like my neighbour Bec! (Emily’s a pom who emigrated to manage a new resort there) We (Nick, Rose and I) had a great night, which we finished by going back to Game Bar and getting Bombay Baguettes.
Another night I went late-night swimming in the tepid beach with a friend, and had an incredible time with the bio-luminescence of the phosphorescing plankton. It’s SOOO much fun, you move you hand around in the water and you get glowing particles around it – Harry Potter style! (Even better is doing this during a night scuba dive… more info later)
My $130 Timberland sandals were stolen from Game Bar one night, which I was not happy about – but I figure if that’s the worst of it, I’ve come off fairly lightly.
The last couple of days were pleasantly restful, very much needed too.
Posted by Dan at 02:00 AM | Comments (0)